WILD WEST VANCOUVER ISLAND

Dive in with us as we chase adventure up the rugged West Coast of Vancouver Island, where the waves, weather, and hidden wonders all have stories to tell.

From misty mornings to hidden coves, this trip was a reminder of why we build boats that can take you anywhere.

Hop aboard 40’ C120 Arcturus with Flora, and slip away into a tale of taking on the open ocean with a crew of 20 Aspen Catamarans led by our founder, Larry.

After a bit of wandering the waterfront that evening, we found some live music and got a taste of Ucluelet summer for the 20some crowd. It reminded me of summer in a small town in Alaska, no frills but all the fun. Not too much fun for us though because we were slated to be up at 5:00am to catch a weather window. And just like that I was waking up to the generator kicking on at 4:30am. Time for coffee.

Charts plotted and extras tied down we cast off from the dock around 6:00am. The world was beginning to come alive, and a sparkle broke through the fog as the sun made her entrance. I clutched my coffee and stared past the helm with excitement as we rounded the corner out of Ucluelet Inlet. The sea, we were here. The other Aspens around us were finally in view, as we had been scattered amongst different docks in the small harbor that wasn’t really built with the expectations of 20 yachts showing up as a squad.

The waves were larger than your casual swell, 7-9 foot rollers with 2-3 foot chop, all fairly closely stacked. Meaning no matter what sort of boat you’re in, it’s about to get a bit exciting. It quickly became apparent that the ocean wasn’t interested in simply entertaining my adventurous spirit, she wanted to remind me where I came from. It was very much a, I brought you into this world and I can take you out of it, sort of humbling exchange.

As we pulled into Templar Channel and away from the open ocean swells, I found myself considering how glad I was not to be on a boat of lesser stature. The sea doesn’t have favorites, and I know I would have had no more mercy on a less stable craft. It was a true testament to the thoughtful design and craftsmanship that goes into every Aspen. It was at this point that we all made the collective decision to continue past Tofino and take interior channels up to Hot Springs Cove. The next few hours were peaceful and picturesque as we cruised behind Vargas and Flores Islands. I made a fresh pot of coffee, and we all laughed about our graceful start to the day.

Hot Springs Cove is exactly what it sounds like. So, you can imagine everyone was pretty stoked to get to shore. We made lunch and packed our backpacks for the short one-mile hike to the springs. I was pleasantly surprised to find that the trail was entirely made up of a boardwalk that stretched, twisted, and turned through the old growth rain forest. All leading up to a bubbling hot river that descended rockily into the ocean below. We clamored over boulders and found small pools to soak our bones in, a real treat to find such a luxury in the middle of nowhere.

By the time we got back to the boats it was around 4:00pm and the conditions had mellowed, so we decided to make one more move before calling it a day. About 10 miles back up Sydney Inlet is a little oasis called Bottleneck Cove. You can probably imagine the shape of the bay, a small opening into a very protected cove. Just large enough for 20 Aspens to anchor up and settle in.

Once everyone was hooked, happy hour could finally begin. The BBQs were lit and the beverages were poured. Laugher and the hum of camaraderie bounced off the trees surrounding the bay. Canadian summer provides long days meaning we were still hours from sundown. For me that meant taking my first ocean plunge of the trip. After sitting in a steamy sulfur river a few hours prior I was ready for a good rinse. I took a running leap off the back deck of Arcturus and to my absolute delight I was met with warm water as I plunged beneath the surface. “It’s like a lake in here!” I yelled out as I emerged from below. I floated around on my back for a few moments just enjoying the unrealistic, yet present, bliss of it all.

When I climbed back on the boat I went up to the helm and turned the Garmin back on to look at the water temp, 72 degrees Fahrenheit! No wonder I was surprised. One of the perks of being in such a protected cove during the summer; finding very swimmable water. To tie a bow on the whole evening I followed up my plunge with a hot shower on the back deck. I’m not sure if it’s even up for debate but I would argue that the outdoor hot/cold handheld faucet at the stern is an option you wouldn’t want to pass up for your own Aspen. It’s the simplest, most thoughtful luxuries, that make the difference I’ve always thought.

Aspen Happy Hour

After a cozy sleep tucked away like a ship in a bottle, we were up early again and ready to make our next move. Coffee poured, anchor up, and we were on our way back out to sea. About 35 miles north the entrance of Nootka Sound lay before us. We just had to push through the waves and clear Estevan Point first. The swells were no more forgiving than they had been the previous day, but this time we were more prepared. We were met with 10 to 12-foot white caps, that were clearly breaking in the shallows of the point. We gave the land some generous distance while keeping the swell on our bow, and after a couple of hours at about 12-15knts we steadily made our way back into protected waters.

Upon arrival into Nootka Sound there is a small bay on the northwest side of the inlet called Yuquot or “Friendly Cove,” with great historical significance for early contact between Europeans and Nuu-chah-nulth First Nations people. In 1778 James Cook accompanied by William Bligh became the first Europeans to set foot on land here, as it had been inhabited by the Mowachaht-Muchalaht people for millennia. The site also held the Spanish trading post, Santa Cruz de Nutka, from 1789 to 1795. It wasn’t until 1923 that the Canadian Government declared Yuquot as a National Historical Site. Presently the site is a beautiful spot to take a break and soak up treasures from the past. Short trails lead to various totem poles and native art. Sanford Williams, a skilled local carver, can be found in his studio that overlooks the cove crafting totem poles. We were privileged enough to get to chat with him while he worked and marvel at his thoughtfully created art.

Nuu-chah-nulth Art

Nootka Lighthouse

After a walk up to Nootka Lighthouse to meet the Lighthouse keeper and taking in more of the sights we were ready for lunch. Back on the boat I threw together a one pan scramble for the three of us. Less dishes on a boat are always preferable even though an Aspen galley has more than enough room to cook full scale meals. We headed back out for a smooth 20-mile cruise up Tahsis Inlet. As we traveled deeper into protected waters the conditions became increasingly more tropical until we all found ourselves enjoying the 80 degree ride from the flybridge. I was lulled into an impromptu cat nap from a cocktail of salt water, soft country music, and sunshine.

At the northernmost point of Tahsis Inlet is, you guessed it, Tahsis. But most importantly for us, Westview Marina. We were all really looking forward to reaching Westview as we had a block of slips reserved for everyone, and we needed to fill up fuel and water tanks. Now I love exploration more than most, however, when you pull up to the dock and see a sign for ice cold Margaritas after only having one shower in three days, you let go of all that pretty quick. We all shuffled off our boats and into “Margaritaville North,” the floating lotus garden of the Canadian wilderness. All jokes aside, it was literally floating. An outdoor style restaurant atop floating docks complete with string lights, mellow music, and a hostess named Jolene that treated everyone like a regular. It was time to kick back. We ended the day with a relaxed group dinner and a peaceful rest snuggled up to the dock.

We all greeted the next day at our own pace. Each boat coming to life slowly, sipping coffee and watching the morning show of Eagles dancing through the sky and across the surface of the water in pursuit of a salmon breakfast. We had no definitive plans, more of a, choose your own adventure, sort of day. A few of us began by walking the mile to the local grocery store, and found a poutine food truck along the way. Cheese curds and gravy atop a bed of hot and crispy fries; the Canadian breakfast of champions.

Bald Eagle searches for a seafood breakfast in Tahsis, BC

After a bit more wandering, we found our way back to the marina and began to gear up for something more adventurous. You have to keep moving after you eat an entire plate of poutine, or you will fall asleep standing up. About ten of us loaded into a couple of our smaller boats and headed back down the Inlet for a side quest. 16 miles northwest is the even smaller still, town of Zeballos. Originally a gold mining site from the 1930’s the town now mostly serves as a base for sport fishing, though some do call it home year-round.

Our cruise through Esperanza & Zeballos Inlets provided us with gorgeous views. Steep terrain plunged directly into the water surrounding us, resulting in depths of around 800ft only 50 yards offshore. This kind of terrain is great for rock fish and catching other deep-water dwellers, which explains the abundance of charter fishing throughout the area. Stepping off the dock and into Zeballos feels like walking the set of an old Western. False-front buildings oppose each other on the humble street that connects one side of town to the other. We wandered fairly aimlessly for a bit just soaking up our surroundings until we came to Sugar Loaf Bridge, the only crossing of the Zeballos River before making our way back to the boats.

The ride back to Westview Marina was a moment of calm. I sat on the back deck in the sun and watched the trees and rocky islands fall behind in our wake. It was potluck night for the Aspen crew, and after a lunch of BBQ chips, I was ready for dinner. By the time we got back, those who had stayed behind were already getting things setup, and soon enough we had taken over our end of the dock with camp chairs and a table full of food. It was a delicious feast, complete with fresh smoked salmon right off the back deck smoker of Aspen C108, Do Little. As the light faded from the sky, and the afternoon winds died to a whisper only the faint sounds of laughter could be heard from down the dock.

Zeballos Dock

This was our last night in Tahsis. The weather forecast for the open ocean was looking more promising the next few days and it was time to start making our way south again. Waving goodbye to our new friends at Westview Marina we pulled away from the dock and headed back down Tahsis Inlet to the head of Nootka Sound. We decided to spend one final night in the wild and head 3 miles up Bligh Inlet, the interior of Bligh Island. Once we got anchored up a few of us hopped in Carbon Cats to explore the bay up close. We weaved around the small islands pointing out sea life and marveling at the resiliency of the trees that seemed to grow straight out of the rocks. Sturdiness out here wasn’t a choice, but a shared attribute of all the life surrounding us. In true Aspen fashion we finished off the day with another potluck. Four of our boats had rafted up and we all scattered between back decks, passing food back and forth. It was a great way for everyone to share all the odds and ends from their fridge, as our trip would soon be coming to a close.

Aspen C128 heads out to sea under a stormy sky

The next morning it was go-time. After traveling relatively light distances each day the journey ahead of us was a marathon. The plan was to make it to Victoria, BC, approximately 180 miles south. We were up at 4:30am pulling anchor and stowing gear. Leaving the calm inlets behind and heading back into open ocean, a bit more preparation was called for than the last few days. The good news is that heading south we would be riding following seas, meaning that the waves would be giving us a push instead of fighting back. Another exciting aspect of these kind of swells means actively driving to keep each wave square with your stern. Nothing like blasting Santana at 6:00am while surfing a 40’ Catamaran under a stormy sky to get you feeling like a true pirate of the Caribbean.

After about four hours at around 20 – 25 knts my arms were starting to get tired, and we were nearing Ucluelet. Time to refuel and take a breather before continuing on. Only about 30 minutes after leaving Ucluelet things really started to calm down, and before we knew it the swell had dropped to almost nothing. We all took the opportunity to get ourselves cleaned up and make something to eat while underway, what a luxury. By the time I had finished lunch the sun was coming out and I was wondering if this was even the same day that we had started in. Either way I saw an opportunity, grabbed my cameras and headed for the fly bridge with a handheld VHF. The open ocean was finally giving me a moment calm enough to direct a running photo shoot with our two newest boats, and I wasn’t going to miss it.

Pulling into Victoria was a bit of a shock to the system as we were immediately immersed back into civilization. We figured there was only one solution to such a situation; find the nearest steakhouse. After a delicious meal on the waterfront, we all retired back to our own boats for the evening. Sitting on the flybridge of Arcturus we watched the sun set and reflected on our journey over a bottle of wine. We laughed at our mistakes and found pride in our accomplishments, and soon enough it was time to call it a day. We only had 40 miles left to get us back to Anacortes in the morning, meaning I would be in my own bed tomorrow night. After everything was quiet, I crawled back out of my bunk and sat on the back deck for a moment soaking in the glow of the harbor lights that sparkled across the water. Another one of those simple luxuries finding me once more.

As we pulled out of the Victoria harbor for the home stretch in the morning, I couldn’t help but feel a bit sad knowing that no grand adventure lay before us in the day ahead. There would be no big waves, no new fjords to marvel at, no potluck. But how lucky were we to have done something so amazing that made saying goodbye so bittersweet. As my feet hit the dock in Cap Sante my feelings of dramatic nostalgia washed away and were replaced with a satisfying feeling of familiarity. It was good to be home. This adventure may be over, but only to leave room for more. ~

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Flora Walters grew up aboard a sailboat, exploring the world’s oceans long before she ever called land home. A true daughter of the sea, she was born on the North Island of New Zealand while her parents cruised the South Pacific. As a lifelong traveler and creative, she believes movement is essential to growth, whether across oceans or within ourselves. Today, she brings that same spirit to her work as Marketing & Media Manager for Aspen Power Catamarans; where she tells stories that connect people to the water and adventure. With a background in photography, music, IT systems, creative media and storytelling – Flora weaves together her love of exploration, craftsmanship, and the sea in everything she creates.